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Photo by Shane Faire
Here are some rattie home decor ideas which have successfully endured the
triple test: durability against tiny rattie teeth, cleanability, and the
wallet test!
PVC PIPE
This toy serves a similar purpose to those ferret tubes with the nasty little
ventilation slits that catch rat toes, but it is completely safe. If you go
check out your neighborhood hardware store, you will find that they have PVC
pipe connecters in a wide variety of sizes and interesting shapes. I suggest
buying the largest available size that will fit in your cage. At the very
least, do not buy anything that the largest rat in the cage could possibly get
stuck in. This stuff is practically indestructible and can be sanitized with
soap and hot water, bleach solution, or Parvosol. The rats will lie on top of
it, use it as a little hideaway while eating a particularly desirable treat,
or race through it while playing with other rats.
FERRET CORNER LITTER PANS
You say your rats like hammocks. So do mine. You say your rats eventually
chew their hammocks to smithereens. Mine, too. I like ferret corner litter
pans much better. You can go to the pet shop and get a ferret corner litter
pan with hanging tabs in the back for about half the cost of a hammock, and it
will last at least five to ten times as long. When you bring the ferret
litter pan home, peel out the stickers, wash it out, and fill it with a heavy-
weight bedding (such as BioFlush or Gentle Touch. Has to be heavy so the rats
won't make it into "snow"). Then hang it in the highest possible corner of
the cage. My rats will jam their bodies into these to sleep until they look
like a fur patchwork quilt, with little tails sticking out all around. It's
adorable! For whatever reason, they want to sleep as high up in the cage as
they can. The ferret pans are easy to clean in much the same way as the PVC
pipe connectors. They are also very chew-resistant.
CLIMBING ROPES
Oh, I love those bird ropes at the pet shops. They are wonderful and the rats
love them. But they are, unfortunately, more susceptible to rattie teeth than
the previous two toys, and their lifespan is therefore rather limited. Being
blessed with multitudinous rodent pals, what am I to do??? My solution is to
go back to the hardware store and buy cotton clothesline. It is nontoxic,
chewable, fairly sturdy, and can be braided or knotted into wonderful climbing
ropes, which I crisscross through the cage for the rats' climbing enjoyment.
Make your ropes four or so strands thick, so they are easy to walk on, and
knot them at regular intervals. You can even do fancy things like braiding in
a piece of domestically produced rawhide, clean untreated wood (perhaps wooden
clothespins without springs), and even occasionally a pre-washed piece of
sugar cane. You can drill a hole in these or tie a single strand around them
and hang 'em high. These are easy to replace, and since I am replacing them
regularly, I can change the configuration to keep everyone challenged. It
works for us!
HANGING TUBES
Since you're stringing rope anyway, run upstairs or downstairs or whatever and
get some of those old jeans legs you have left over from making cutoffs.
Surely you didn't throw those away? Oh, good! Now, run two parallel ropes
through a nice big pant leg, and hang it high! And if you run out of pant
legs, use a nice thick cardboard mailing tube or a sweatshirt sleeve.
Congratulations, you have just created a rattie "hang-out" par excellence! A
fun variation on the basic hanging tube is an empty, washed coconut shell with
3 holes drilled in it. You can tie it just like one of those rotating tire
swings where the tire hangs parallel to the ground. This should be placed
just a little out of reach, so it's challenging to get into. A nice treat in
the bottom should make everyone curious about this new "nest".
BIRD TOYS
I check the bird section every time I walk through a pet shop. You never know,
the bird toys might be on sale. Walk past the ones with the beads and
plastic, and stop right in front of the wooden ones. Bird toys are some of the
best chew toys for rats, for two reasons: 1) You hang them, so they are
challenging to reach, and 2) You hang them, so they stay clean and hygienic
and are more likely to be used to the maximum extent. They can be a bit
pricey, but I always manage to find a sale or a simpler toy at a reasonable
price. Many of these have a nut stuck in them or some other interesting
feature. My rats like these much better than hamster chew-sticks.
Happy Dumbo ratty, ULYSSES, surrounded by a multitude of toys! Photo by Cathy Weeks.
OPEN-TOP NEST BOXES
If you have a wire cage with a wire floor (which is not recommended because
the wire is so hard on the rats' feet), your rats will need some ways of
getting off of the wire until you are able to replace the cage or remove the
wire floor somehow. Besides the PVC and the hanging toys, it's good to provide
another option for your rats to allow them to spend some time off the wire. I
look for small (about 1’ by 1’ or thereabouts) plastic tubs for my rats. Then
I fill them with soft beddings such as Sani-Chips, CareFresh, or cut-up clean
rags. I place them on the bottom of the cage, because I have observed that
that's where they will end up, regardless. This is a nice alternative sleeping
place, and is often a preferred hangout during dinner time when a rat wants to
eat a favorite dinner component without being seen by the other rats. It is
also a nice obstacle when they race around the cage and chase each other.
TREAT TRAPS
This is an inexpensive pet shop toy that the rats like. It is plastic and a
bit bigger than a golf ball. It looks like a little round plastic cage. You
can open it and put a couple yogurt drops or other treats in it, and it
provides a challenge to the rats, who will do anything to get at the treats
inside the ball. It will usually inspire a tugging match followed by rats
racing around the cage with it to keep it away from the other rats.
Eventually, they settle down to the business of figuring out how the heck to
get the treats out of the ball. It seems to hold their interest quite well.
Don't go too heavy on oily or high-protein treats, though--a few in the ball
every 2-4 days is plenty, and I have also seen rats play with the ball when it
is empty.
STACKING BIN BUNK BEDS
My friend Joannie Lienhart gave me these, so I don't know what they're called
in the store, and she has forgotten. Anyway, they are plastic and look like a
little solid plastic bin with one side lowered and angled out a bit. They stack. They are
just the right size for one adult male rat to curl up in. You might find them
in an office supply store or a container store. I like to stack them two or
three high and fill them with bedding, and the rats use them just as the name
implies--as bunk beds. They get chewed a bit, but seem to be pretty sturdy.
They are also easy to wash.
I hope some of these ideas prove useful to you. I would like to thank Joannie
Lienhart for her help with the article. Many of these ideas are hers or were
improved by her suggestions.
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