PET MOUSE FAQ Version 1.10 - June 1997 ******************* Here is the pet mouse FAQ. I would welcome any comments or contributions, as I'm sure there's a lot more to say! Angela Horn (udty075@kcl.ac.uk) (formerly Angela King) Disclaimer: ------------ The contributors to this FAQ are not veterinary surgeons; they are ordinary people who keep mice and who have agreed to share their experiences and to pass on information gleaned from other sources. The fact that someone has been kind enough to contribute to this FAQ does not imply that they agree with everything else in it! I hope that the advice and information in this FAQ will be useful to you, but you must take it at your own risk. Please feel free to copy or distribute this file as long as it is properly accredited. Contributors: ------------------------------- Compiled by Angela Horn (London, England), with contributions from: Ted P. and Susan R. (Alaska, USA), Madeline Lewis (USA), Satu Karhumaa (Finland). Thank you to everyone else who has provided feedback and comments. Where to find the latest FAQ: ----------------------------- This FAQ should be posted regularly to rec.pets, and can also be found at: https://www.rmca.org/Resources/ CONTENTS ******** 1. Keeping mice as pets 2. Housing 3. Feeding 4. Skin problems 5. Breeding, and orphaned mice 6. Other health matters 7. Reference - mouse clubs & books 1. KEEPING MICE AS PETS ******************** 1.0 Why keep mice as pets? --------------------------- They are very happy and playful, active creatures. They are great fun to watch. Some fancy mice are extremely pretty. They get to know their owners and will come to take treats off you, climb onto your hand and run all over you. They are very easy to keep, undemanding pets. However, they are by nature timid and so you need to spend time getting to know them. They will not play *with* you in the way that dogs or rats will, but they are rewarding pets nonetheless. 1.05 What are fancy mice? Are they any different to pet store mice? ------------------------------------------------------------------- Fancy mice have been selectively bred for exhibition. They are available in a very wide range of coat colours, patterns and so on. An exhibition standard fancy mouse looks quite different to the pet mice usually found in pet stores - they are considerably larger and have larger ears and eyes, and are usually more docile than ordinary pet mice. Ordinary pet mice are frequently bred primarily for snake food, and so have not been selected for health or temperament. Both ordinary pet mice and fancy mice may have been produced by close inbreeding, and this can result in a loss of vigour which makes the mouse vulnerable to illness. It is important to emphasize that there is as much chance that mice from a pet store are closely inbred as mice from exhibition stock, so you will have to judge each mouse on its merits. If you are interested in exhibiting mice, or would like to obtain some fancy mice to keep as pets, contact one of the organisations listed at the end of this FAQ. Several of the books listed at the end of the FAQ cover the mouse fancy, and exhibiting mice, in detail so the subject will not be covered here. 1.1 How many should I get? -------------------------- At least two - mice are social animals and it is *very* unnatural for them to live alone. Single mice are generally bored, lonely and miserable, and they do not make good pets as they tend to spend more time sleeping or hiding in the nestbox than mice kept in groups. With a single mouse you also miss out on the fun of watching mice play together and groom each other. It is really not fair to mice to keep them alone if it can be avoided - if they liked solitude, they woudn't live in colonies in the wild. Sometimes male mice which are very aggressive towards other males have to be kept alone - see the section on keeping males together below, for more on this. But living alone does not have to be a disaster for your mouse if you are prepared to put in a lot of effort to make his life more enjoyable - here are some examples of ways you can make a single mouse's life better: "Male mouse lived alone in a two-level home (plastic tank on top of an aquarium, with a rope to travel between the levels. We trained him to come out the upstairs door when he heard a certain whistled tone. We whistled him out for play time twice a day, morning and evening. He went on a few airplane trips in my pocket. He had lots of toys, a big variety of food, and lots of love. When he died of thoracic cancer I felt he had led a good life. Female pet store "runt" lived originally in a small plastic aquarium, graduating to a larger tank, and finally kept on a small coffee table without restraint. She was also trained to a whistle, so it was easy to beckon her for play time. Because she had a neurological problem, she could only turn in a circle. So, we gave her a bicycle tire and other circular tracks for exercise. When she died of leukemia, I felt she had had a good life also." Susan R./Ted P. 1.2 How old should they be when I get them? -------------------------------------------- Baby mice are fully weaned from their mother at about four weeks old, but they benefit a lot from staying with their litter mates for another week - the disruption of leaving both mother, sibilings and home in one day is a lot to cope with. Ideally they should not leave the litter before 5 weeks of age. If you get them too young they will be jumpy and hard to socialize at first; see the section below on mouse development. Some pet shops will offer mice for sale as soon as they start to eat solid food, at about 2 weeks of age. However, although mice this young eat solids, they really do need their mother's milk for another couple of weeks. Mice weaned this early often don't survive. Mice are not fully grown until at least 12 weeks of age, although many mice take longer than this to reach full size. Angela Horn 1.3 Can you ever keep males together? ------------------------------------- Yes, if they are introduced very young (under 5 weeks old), and preferably when they are from the same litter. Established groups of male mice should not be separated for more than a few hours, or they may start fighting. In particular, you generally cannot take one of a group out to mate with a female and then return him to the group. One of the most common factors which make male mice more likely to fight is being kept in a small cage, so if you keep a group of male mice you really do need to get them a large home. Sometimes even established groups of males fall out, though - you have to watch them carefully. Some strains of mice are more aggressive than others, & so your success in keeping males together will depend in large part on the family background of your mice. There will always be the occasional fight with males which live together. If this fighting seems to get serious, ie there are bleeding wounds or a mouse seems depressed and is spending a lot of time sitting still, then the mouse which is bullying him should be taken out of the cage. At this stage you have several choices. a) Keep the mouse alone, and try to give him an interesting life b) See Section 1.3.1 - introduce the mouse to others which he cannot bully so easily. c) Put him with an old,infertile doe for company d) Have him neutered - see section 1.6 e) If the mouse is one you want to breed from, but not constantly, then you could use the following method which worked very well for me. Put a doe in with the buck, and leave them together when she has her litter. The doe may well become pregnant immediately after giving birth, so understand that you risk having two litters close together. When the babies reach 4 weeks, or the doe is about to have her second litter, split the family up leaving the female babies with the mother and the male babies with the father. Because the older buck recognises the babies as members of his own family, he will not attack them and they should be able to live together for the rest of their lives. Angela Horn 1.3.1 Introducing Adult Male Mice, by Madeline Lewis -------------------------------- I have done this several times, with varying degrees of success and my *procedure* is sort of made up as I go along. In all cases, the mice have been fully adult -- 6 months or older. I take the *bully* and keep him by himself for a few days (sort of a cooling off period). I give him a fresh nest box (usually a finch nest) to mark with his scent. Then, when I clean the cages, I put all my males together in a single holding cage (this is my usual practice anyway) to hang out together while I'm cleaning. I leave them all together for around an hour to see how things go. Then, once I've cleaned and set up the cages (more on this in a minute), I separate the boys into their various living groups. I have one very large aquarium -- 100 gallons -- and this is the one into which I introduce my troublemaker. As part of my cage set up, I use the undeodorized nest box and also the troublemaker's wheel -- still stinky from his urine. This way, he has some of his own belongings and apparently doesn't feel the need to assert himself as strongly. He will usually run vigorously on his own wheel and fuss around in his own nest box for a bit. Then, I watch very carefully to make sure that troublemaker isn't too aggressive and that the resident group also don't make his life too miserable. Some things that I'm certain really can make the difference between success and failure: 1) The cage must be very large -- male mice are insanely territorial and so there must be ample (if not surplus) space for everyone in the cage. 2) This is perhaps the most important point: it is best to introduce the new male into an existing group of four or more. Since even close-knit male groups are constantly falling out with one another, it's likely that a male on the outs with his group will *befriend* the newcomer. 3) You need to supply lots of resources -- 2 or 3 wheels, several nest boxes, lots of tubes and toys -- so that existing group and the newcomer don't feel that they have to compete strenuously for scarce resources. 4) I don't give them interesting treats as food for a few days -- just plain rice. This seems to reduce fighting over tasty bits of food. All this being said, this plan doesn't always work and then you'll have to remove the old troublemaker (now *victim*) from the situation. Still, I've never had male mice fight to the death and only one of my males has sustained a severe injury as a result of fighting. When I first started keeping mice, I did have two males (brothers) die of what I now recognize to be stress from bullying by an older, domineering buck. Now, when I see things are not going well and bullying is going on, I immediately remove the offender in hopes of cooling his jets. Even though it takes a lot of energy and alertness, I do think making this effort is better than condemning a male to live by himself. I've had injured males who clearly have enjoyed spending a few days by themselves while they rested and healed, but any healthy mouse is bored and depressed on his/her own. They are such intensely social creatures that it seems to me a tragedy to force the males to live out their lives in solitary confinement. Madeline Lewis 1.4 Don't mice smell? How can I stop them smelling so much? ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Males smell a lot - they produce a musk-like substance. Females smell much less and many people find they cannot smell a couple of females at all if they are kept clean. Mouse cages need to be cleaned out at least once a week to stop them smelling offensive, but if you clean a male mouse's cage too often he will just scent-mark it more to replace that lovely smell! Other tricks include putting a glass jar in the cage in the dirtiest corner, and small lengths of plastic pipe laid on the floor of the cage; the mice use this as a toilet & it can be rinsed out regularly. Angela Horn We use a highly absorbent bedding (CareFresh), and an air filter. Since all our males (except spiny's) are neutered, the odor is not too bad to start with. Susan R./Ted P. 1.5 How do you introduce adult females? ---------------------------------------- Clean out the cage thoroughly, remembering to scrub all toys and cage furniture to remove the smell of the established mice. Since they recognise their own territory by smell, they will be less defensive over territory that doesn't smell like it is their own. Dab each mouse (old and new) with something smelly like perfume or vanilla essence, to confuse their scents. Put all the mice in the clean cage with an extra-tasty feed. There will almost always be some squeaking and occasionally tail biting while a hierarchy is established. If any female mouse is vicious towards the others and inflicts serious wounds then do not breed from her - she will pass on her nasty temperament to her children. Angela Horn 1.6 Can male mice be neutered? ------------------------------ Yes. Traditionally the problem with operating on mice was that they didn't survive the anaesthetic. However, mice can cope with Isoflourane anaesthesia, and neutering (castration) is a relatively simple operation. The question is not whether mice *can* be neutered, but whether you feel that yours *should* be, given that any operation will put the animal through some discomfort. You have to decide on an individual basis whether surgery is justified. It really makes a big difference with this or any other veterinary treatment if you find a vet who is experienced with very small mammals, and who is comfortable with handling them. Contact local or national rat, mouse, hamster or gerbil societies to find out if there are any recommended vets near you. AH "We have had some success keeping sibling males together from birth, but at about four months age, fighting escalated to the point of tissue damage (tails, ears, etc.). Rather than separate the boys, we tried neutering. Our Vet uses isoflurane as an anesthetic, and no ill effects have occurred. The anesthetic also permitted various other surgical procedures on mice of 15-50 grams (wound repairs, etc. We've had over a dozen of our males neutered, with no evidence of complications. We checked with a large US Veterinary College about other methods of birth control for mice. The professor said that vasectomies are unsuccessful due to subsequent cyst formation; there is no contraceptive for oral use on mice. After neutering, aggressiveness generally diminishes, although it takes a while for testosterone levels to go down, as it is stored in the animal's fat. Also, the mouse remains fertile for a week or two. We have males living with females, with each other, and unrelated males living together thanks to neutering. One of our favorite male mice used to get so excited that each out-of-cage experience ended with one of us getting bitten. Since his surgery, the biting has stopped, although he is still quite excitable and we have him in solo houseing. One gratifying benefit of neutering is that the male smell is substantially reduced!" Susan P. & Ted R. 1.7 How should you pick a mouse up? ----------------------------------- With a strange or nervous mouse, the safest way to pick it up is to grasp the BASE of its tail (not the tip) firmly, lift its bottom up slightly and slide your other hand under the mouse, palm upwards. You can then lift your hand up with the mouse sitting on it, but keep hold of the tail unless you know the mouse is calm. Holding the base of the tail in this way is not uncomfortable for the mouse *as long as you make sure its body is supported by your other hand* and will not upset it. Most pet mice will not jump from heights of more than a foot or so, but very nervous ones might - so keep a grip on the tail until you're sure. Don't hold the mouse tightly round its body - this will scare it and could hurt it. When a mouse is comfortable with you, it may walk onto your hand if you hold your open palm in front of it. Alternatively, you can very gently scoop it up, but be very careful not to squeeze it or hold it tightly round the body. In some cases you might see people picking mice up by the base of the tail and holding them, dangling, upside down. This is not really cruel as it doesn't hurt them, but not surprisingly most mice don't seem to like being handled like this - it is more comfortable for them if you support the body with your hand as described above. Holding a mouse by the tip of its tail, or near the tip, IS cruel and could hurt it - the tip of the tail could be skinned or break off. Angela Horn Not being comfortable with picking mice up by the tail, we pick up scared mice by enticing them into a paper tube (from toilet paper, etc), then wait for the mouse to come out. I do this in a small room with the door shut rather than grasp the tail for insurance. When a mouse is more relaxed, I pick it up by putting one hand on either side of the mouse, palms up, and scoop the mouse. As it gets more comfortable, the mouse will walk directly only my hand. Susan R./Ted P. 1.8 How do you tame/socialize pet mice? ---------------------------------------- Handle them often and gently, and bribe them with food. One good method is to take all food out of the cage for a few hours, then sit down to watch TV or read a book with the mouse cage by your side. Take a spray of millet or a handful of cockatiel seed in your hand and just leave the hand in the mouse cage while you concentrate on something else. The reason for using these particular treats is that mice love the seeds, but since they are small they have to keep coming back for more. Do this as often and for as long as you can stand - it may take several attempts before the mice start to take food from you, but eventually they will start to climb over your hand and perhaps try to climb up your arms. Once your mice start taking food from your hand, make a distinctive noise whenever you offer them food - eg a whistle or clicking sound. The mice will associate this sound with food and learn to come to you when you make it. If I accidentally make a clicking sound near my mouse cages, about 50 little faces appear at the wire demanding sunflower seeds! AH 1.9 How can I tell what sex my mouse is? ---------------------------------------------------------- The easiest way to sex mice is by direct comparison - the distance between the anus and genitals is greater in the male. Mice can be sexed from birth in this way once you've had a bit of practise - so there's no excuse for pet stores saying they 'can't guarantee it's the right sex'. When you buy a pair, before you leave the pet store, gently lift their tails and compare their genitals. Look at the mice from the side as well as straight on. They should look exactly the same. If you're not sure, try a magnifying glass or take it to a vet or humane society & ask them to check. If this option isn't available to you, here's another one: If the mouse is old enough to leave its mother, and if it is male, it will have testicles. These can be drawn up into the body, but if you lift the tail slightly and look underneath you'll still see the slightly baggy scrotum (lovely!). Alternatively, put the mouse's food into a high-sided bowl. The mouse will perch on the side of the bowl to eat. If it is a boy, its testicles will soon drop down and dangle for all to see. Only female mice have nipples, so it might be worth exaining the mouse's tummy. They are visible in tiny babies, but once hair grows can be hard to spot unless the mouse has reared a litter. Angela Horn 1.10 How long do they live? -------------------------------- The lifespan of mice is very variable. As a rough guide, between 18 months and 2 years is a typical lifespan, although by giving your mice a good diet and lifestyle you may be able to give them some extra time. Occasionally mice live to 3 or more; the world record holder lived to 7 according to one source! 1.11 Any tips on mouse safety? Can they meet other pets? --------------------------------------------------------- Mice are vulnerable little animals and they need to be protected from predators and handled with care. It is particularly important to keep your other pets away from them - dogs, cats, rats, gerbils, hamsters and other pets can all easily maim or kill mice if they get hold of them, and may even savage them throught the bars of their cage. Although there have been a few cases where mice have become friends with other pets, there have been many more where attempts to introduce them have ended with a lot of pain or even death for the mouse. It is also important to only allow your mice to run around where you can watch them & ensure that they do not get trodden on, or escape (eg under furniture, into holes in brickwork, heating or ventilation ducts etc). Pet mice which escape to the outside world will almost always die very quickly - they will not know how to find food or shelter, and will usually either be eaten by a predator, die of exposure, or starve to death. They just don't have the survival skills of their wild relatives - which is why it is not fair to 'set them free' if you cannot keep your mice any longer. Please, if you must get rid of your pets, take them to an animal shelter instead of turning them loose. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MOUSE HOUSING ************* 2.1 How much space does a pair of mice need? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Mice don't need very much space to survive, and many breeders and labs keep pairs or trios in boxes or cages with floor dimensions around 9" x 16". However, it is easy and costs very little to give your mice more than the bare minimum of space to live in - 'survival' is not good enough for our pets. Whatever cage you use, it should be tall enough to allow the mice to stand up on their hind legs and sniff the air - say 6 inches. But taller cages make it easier for you to look in from outside the cage and watch your mice. What really matters to the mice is floorspace. Long, thin cages (eg tanks) are better than short, wide ones as they allow more space to run. For permanent housing a minimum of 2 square feet of floorspace will provide a very good home for anything between 2 and 8 mice. This might be a 2' long tank, or a wire cage with several levels. AH 2.2 What sort of housing is best? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I have mice in a variety of cages - glass tanks, plastic cages and 3-storey wire hamster cages. My experiences are as follows: WOODEN CAGES/BOXES Some mouse books will recommend that you keep your mice in wooden boxes with a wire ventilation grille. These boxes are normally used by fanciers for breeding mice and they provide a very secure environment for a mouse to give birth and rear her litter in. You can find instructions for making them in the books by Tony Cooke and Chris Henwood in the list at the end of this file. However, wooden boxes do not make good permanent homes for pet mice. They absorb urine and become smelly very quickly. They provide a very limited environment for the mice - they cannot climb, there is little room to add a wheel or other toys, and sometimes they cannot even see out. You cannot even see into them to check your mice without removing the lid! Leave these boxes for breeding use only. WIRE CAGES (this goes for bird cages too) - BAD POINTS: 1. If you can get a finger through the wire, a young mouse can get out. Single mice are more prone to try to escape than mice which live in groups. Sometimes a mouse may try to squeeze through the bars, get stuck halfway and hurt itself. You can cover wire cages with 1/2" x 1/2" wire mesh to stop any escapes, or keep the cage in an empty bathtub or on a shelf out of reach of danger for the first month or so until the mice are too big to escape. Make long as the cage is out of reach of predators (rats, cats, dogs etc). Often when a mouse escapes from the cage it becomes lonely and wants to get back in; I find that most escapees only try to escape once or twice, before deciding that life is much better if they stay IN the cage! 2. If any levels in the cage have wire floors or ladders, they will be corroded by mouse urine and your shiny new cage will be dingy and hard to get clean within a year. Scrubbing the floors with wire wool helps. Alternatively, you can cover wire floors with linoleum or MagicMat, or even cardboard, and simply remove the floor covering to clean or throw away. 3. Bird and hamster cages usually have only one or two small doors. This can make it hard to catch mice - if you have to chase them around the cage to catch them, they will get panicked & upset. You need to be able to reach ALL areas of the cage easily. WIRE CAGES - GOOD POINTS: 4. Mice love to climb & wire-sided cages provide good opportunities for this. Climbing is a very good exercise; as well as keeping them physically fit, it helps to stop them getting bored. 5. Great ventilation - mice are prone to respiratory problems which are aggravated by ammonia build-up in poorly ventilated cages. And interesting smells are constantly drifting through the mouse cage, giving them something to think about. 6. Large hamster cages (multi-storey are the only ones worth considering) are fairly cheap & easy to find. 7. Multiple-storey cages allow the mice plenty of floorspace whilst taking up little of yours. 8. You can feed and interact with your mice through the bars. It's great to see a group of little noses appear at the wire every time you pass the cage, and you will get a lot more fun out of your mice - and they will become more friendly - if you encourage them to take food from you regularly like this. 9. It's easy to fix lots of pieces of cage furniture up to the bars - eg ladders, nestboxes, bird toys etc.. GLASS TANKS - BAD POINTS 1. You have to be careful cleaning them - I've found the best method is to shovel out used bedding in a dustpan, scrape the corners out with a paint scraper, them spray the inside with disinfectant spray. After this you need to wipe over with clean water so the mice don't have to inhale disinfectant. 2. Obviously, heavy & they break if you drop them. 3. To provide maximum ventilation you need to make a lid of wire mesh, no more than 1/2" square or youngsters will squeeze through (even large show mice up to 8 weeks old can squeeze through 1" x 1/2" mesh) and they can jump a long way up to grab the wire. The easiest way to make a lid is to staple the wire to two battens of wood which fit tightly over the longest sides of the cage. If you can be bothered to make a proper frame, it looks nicer! 4. Mice can't climb up the sides, so you need to put in lots of toys & 'furniture' like pieces of wood for them to climb over - they really love scrambling over different levels. You can make a climbing frame for a tank by simply hanging a piece of wire mesh against one side. 5. Even with a wire mesh lid, aquariums give poor ventilation. Ammonia and unpleasant smells build up in them very quickly. GLASS TANKS - GOOD POINTS 5. No danger of escape as long as you make a suitable lid. 6. Bedding can be piled really deep so the mice can burrow through it and play in it without hoofing it all over your carpet. They love deep bedding, and they love throwing it out of the cage. 7. Keeps the smell in as well as the bedding! 8. You can easily watch your mice being excessively cute and playing in the bedding etc.. 9. Warm and protected from draughts 10. Cheap & easy to find second-hand; leaks don't matter for mice (but cracks may be dangerous). 11. Lots of floorspace to arrange toys and furniture on. PLASTIC CAGES These can be either plastic tanks or boxes, or modular systems designed for hamsters such as Habitrail, Rotastak etc.. I'm informed by hamster people that these aren't much good for hamsters since they're vulnerable to chewing & too small for an adult Syrian hamster. They're probably better for mice since mice generally are less intent on escape than hamsters, and are smaller. Watch them for signs of damage in case your mice turn out to be chewers - most aren't, but you could be unlucky. BAD POINTS 1. Modular systems can be fiddly to dismantle and clean. 2. Ventilation may be inadequate - a few holes bored in the plastic will not induce much air circulation. Better to replace the lid with wire mesh if ventilation is poor, or fit a mesh panel. 3. If you have a determined chewer it may escape. PLASTIC CAGES - GOOD POINTS 4. Square or rectangular plastic tanks are the easiest thing in the world to clean - just stick them in the sink. 5. Light & portable. 6. Mice love tunnels & hiding places & exploring, so modular systems provide a lot of opportunities. TEMPORARY CAGES - COVERED PLASTIC BOWLS You can make a functional temporary mouse cage simply by using a large plastic washing-up bowl or similar container, and bending a piece of wire mesh to make a lid. This is a cheap and quick method of making an emergency mouse home, but it provides a limited range of opportunities for mice - they cannot climb, and there may not be sufficient height to add a wheel. They cannot see out\ of the cage either - although mice cannot see very far, they still enjoy the stimulation of being able to see a varied environment. _________________ TANK W/ CAGE EXTENSION by Satu Karhumaa All mice are individuals and some of them prefer living in a tank, some in a cage. So, what to do when you have both kind of mice living in a single group? I have found that constructing a cage-tank combination works well in this kind of situation. This way mice that feel that more secure in tank and mice that are more adventurous and enjoy interacting with their environment through the cage wires can live happily together. You can also make use of those all too small cage tops available by combining them with a tank. I have found very cheap cage tops that are either too small to be used for any living creature or have the tray chewed off in second hand shops. I have also had them for free from friends. Always be sure to clean an used cage thoroughly before taking it into use. With my tank w/ cage extension -combinations, the cage covers only part of the tank, the rest is covered with regular lid of wire mesh. There are a couple of ladders leading up the cage part, with horizontally placed ladders providing a bit of floor space. More floor space is provided by using small plastic bowls, originally poultry or meat containers which have been thoroughly cleaned. These bowls are attached to the cage with safety pins or "hooks" making them easy to take off for cleaning. There is also beddings in the bowls. It is easy to attach a safe running wheel in the cage wall - these attached wheels are often much safer for mice than ones having a "leg" of some sorts. I usually place one food bowl in the cage part and another in the tank. Water bottle is usually placed in the tank, hanging it from the wire mesh lid. You can get an even cheaper alternative by using a larger plastic storage container instead of a tank! Use one with lots of floor space and enough height that a mouse can stand up tall, then arrange the cage like with a tank bottom. BAD POINTS: 1. Be sure that the mice can’t squeeze through the bars. 2. Levels and bars will need to be cleaned effectively at each cleaning or they will be corroded. Levels can be replaced with the plastic bowls I described earlier. They are actually a BIG hit in my mousery nowadays! 3. Make sure you construct the combination so that you can get the mice *out* of the cage easily. You can use "clips" to attach the cage part to the tank, so that it is very easy for you to separate the two for cleaning purposes. 4. Tank part is heavy and breaks easily - unless you use a storage box. GOOD POINTS: 1. Mice can enjoy climbing the sides of the cage. 2. Cage top gives better ventilation than just the tank part and the tank still provides warmth and protects from draughts. 3. Cage parts can be very cheap or even free. Remember - you don’t need the tray at all. The tanks parts are also easy to find. 4. Better interaction with your mice than with tank alone. 5. Better possibilities for furnishing than with tank alone. Lots of floor space as well. 6. You can provide your mice with plenty of bedding for them to burrow in without the worry of mice throwing it all out. Satu Karhumaa - satkar@utu.fi Whatever cage you use, do situate it at eye level - when you can see your mice easily it is easier to interact with them & get them tame. If you have other animals, make sure they can't get to the mice. This is particularly important for mice in a cage; they may, for example, stick a paw out to try to grab a passing rat or cat, and get bitten. Angela Horn I try to confine mice the least amount practical. Of course, we have no younsters or predatory animals in the home to jeapardize the mouse's safety. And we don't breed mice. Most of our mice are in an aquarium or plastic tub with no lid. Some are on a table or counter with no confinement -- I just set up their things directly on a towel laid on the counter or table. One of the advantages of not keeping the mice in a closed container is that they are quite accessible for play. Only a rare mouse will not have the sense to stay away from the edge of the table or counter. Cleaning then becomes simply a matter of washing the towel and sanitizing the living surface. Susan R./Ted P. (There is more information about keeping mice without cages like this, in a 'mouse condo' system which is like a large bird table, in a book by Horst Bielfeld called 'Fancy Mice' - further details of book below.) AH 2.3 What sort of litter is best for the cage? ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Highly absorbent beddings such as CareFresh, SaniChips, BioFlush, Yesterday's News, BioCatolet (available in the UK) etc if possible. They have two advantages: not only do they keep the smell down, but they keep your mice healthier. Softwood shavings are thought to cause irritation to the respiratory system and liver damage when the mice inhale volatile oils which they give off. Cedar is the worst, followed by pine. AH 2.4 What about nesting material? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Mice need nesting material in the nestbox, for warmth and comfort. Some people use hay - it smells great, but mice often catch mites from it, and it isn't very absorbent. It's safer to use shredded paper bedding, or torn up toilet roll/kitchen towel. AH 2.5 What sort of toys do mice like? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Lots of them! Some suggestions are given below, but mice can have fun with all sorts of household rubbish - boxes, packets etc. Just make sure there isn't anything poisonous on it, and that it doesn't have sharp edges. Wooden toys get stinky very, very quickly as they absorb urine - so they need to be washed often. * Exercise wheels - mice seem to prefer the types with solid treads & sides, and they're much safer (no bits can get caught in them). Mice really do love wheels, so do try to provide one. * Tubes and tunnels: bits of plastic draining pipe, multi-way pipe connectors that you can buy at hardward/DIY stores cheaply, toilet roll tubes etc. * Boxes and cartons that they can hide in. * Anything with holes in it that they can weave in and out of - egg racks are particular favourites. * Ladders, & for some athletes ropes. Mice like climbing. 2.6 What sort of nestbox is best? ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Any nestbox sold in a pet store will do. It needs to be secure (ie mainly enclosed) with an access hole and preferably a window or other hole for ventilation. You can make your own by cutting a doorway and a few ventilation holes in a plastic container with a lid - an empty plastic jar will do. If you have a cage, try to get a nestbox which will fix on the side of the cage so that mice can use the floorspace beneath it. They also get exercise climbing up and down this way. A flat roof on the nestbox means that mice can also use the space above it - mine like to climb up to a higher vantage point. AH +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ MOUSE DIETS *********** 3.01 What ready-made foods can I feed my mice? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- A standard rodent mix containing an assortment of grains is adequate for most adult mice. This does not mean it is nutritionally the very best your mice can have - since it is designed to suit various rodents it will not be tailored exactly to mouse requirements. However, mice enjoy picking amongst the food and will normally take only what they need without gorging themselves. Many of these mixes are made for hamsters - fine if your mice stay slim, but often too fatty for those with a big appetite. Laboratory pellets provide a complete and vitamin-enriched food, but a diet of pellets is very, very boring and since many mice are picky eaters you may have trouble persuading them to eat it. Personally I would never feed a complete diet like this, no matter how ideal its nutritional content, becuase mice really enjoy picking around in their food, eating the tastiest parts of amixture first, and generally being choosy. For a caged animal, an interesting diet adds variety and interest to its life, and it is a shame to deprive a pet of the opportunity to choose elements of its own diet. If you do use pellets, you can make life more interesting for your mice by supplementing them with small portions of fruit and veg and mealworms. 3.02 Can I make a healthier/cheaper home-made diet for my mice? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ If you are prepared to go to a little more trouble, a home-made mouse diet can be far cheaper than ready-made foods, and more nutritious as well. You can vary the following to suit the waistlines and preferences of your mice: *1 part by volume cooked wholegrain rice (you can cook large batches & freeze it for convenience) *2 parts crushed barley or oats, or a mixture (or porridge oats) *1/2 part millet or cockatiel seed *1/2 part molasses - packed full of vitamins, and sweet too, so it binds the foodtogether AND the mice like it. Additional nutritional supplements can be added if desired: *1/4 part Brewers' Yeast flakes - B vitamins to keep them healthy & happy *1/2 part wheatgerm *Cod liver oil according to manufacturer's recommended dosage. This mixture is adapted from the rat diet designed by Debbie Ducommun. Sunflower seeds can be given as treats, except to fat mice. Cooked soya beans are very good for mice (they are thought to help prevent tumours) and most mice love them - so you can include them as treats or an occasional meal supplement. They have to be cooked first, or digestion problems could result. Stale wholemeal bread makes a very good mouse food, and lots of show mice live on very little else. It should be allowed to dry out thoroughly first, then soak it in water (or skimmed milk for babies/mothers, or stock/gravy for a change of flavour). The reason for allowing the bread to go stale first is that some mice react badly to enzymes in fresh bread which are killed by the staling process (they get spots & itchy skin). AH 3.03 Are fruit and vegetables good for mice? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Small amounts of fruit and veg are a valuable addition to ANY of the above feeding regimes. Only feed TINY quantities of green veg (lettuce, cabbage, broccoli) at a time - too much causes diahorrhea, and mice can get dehydrated by this very quickly. Crunchy fruit & veg such as carrots & apples provide vitamins and an interesting texture, and do not usually cause diahorrhea. Avoid acidic foods such as citrus fruits and onions which could irritate the digestive system. Mice love garden peas! Frozen ones are fine, but defrost them first in water (you don't have to cook them). All fruit & veg are best fed raw to preserve nutritional content. Cooked beans make a good treat - my mice love Soya beans, and they are thought to help prevent tumours too. Note that beans MUST be soaked & cooked before feeding - there will be instructions on the packet. Angela Horn 3.04 What should I feed a mouse when she has a litter? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Supplement feed with natural yoghurt, bread soaked in skimmed milk (or water & powdered milk, which is cheaper), small pieces of cooked meat etc.. Give lots of millet & sunflower seeds. AH 3.05 What are the best treats for my mice? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Wholemeal pasta, esp. wriggly spaghetti, small amounts of leftovers, live mealworms (not the giant ones - they frighten the mice!), sunflower seeds, their favourite fruit or veg, pieces of millet spray sold for birds, bird treats such as millet/seed & honey bars. You can also feed them the commercial small rodent treats sold in pet stores (eg chocolate drops), but they are often fatty and expensive so check the label first. AH. 3.06 Are there any foods I _shouldn't_ feed my mice? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Try to avoid fatty foods where possible, unless they are particularly valuable for growing or convalescent animals, or are otherwise very nutritious. *Peanuts are fattier and less nutritious than sunflower seeds, and provoke a skin reaction in some mice. *Chocolate can be toxic in large amounts *Acidic fruit & veg (citrus fruits, onions etc.) **Anthing you wouldn't eat yourself because it might give you food poisoning - mice are susceptible to salmonella & other bacterial infections too! *Unwashed fruit/veg which might carry pesticides etc - wash it first. AH. 3.07 What should you feed a very fat mouse? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Some mice are prone to obesity - particularly red and sable coloured ones. Often the top half of the mouse looks fine, whilst a sprawling belly spreads out from underneath. Obesity will shorten the mouse's lifespan & make it more vulnerable to cancer, respiratory trouble etc.. If you want to put your fat mouse on a diet, cut out all oily seeds (peanuts, sunflower seeds, millet etc), dairy products, fatty treats etc.. If possible, keep her on a diet of home-made mouse food (see above) and/or soaked staled bread, with lots of fruit & veg. You can give her vitamin supplements to make sure the change of diet doesn't leave her with any deficiencies. AH. 3.08 My mouse has itchy sores but there is no trace of parasites. Is it diet related? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Some mice (Only bucks in my experience, but it may happen to does too) develop a food intolerance which results in itchy skin, sores and scabs over the back and neck, and a generally miserable-looking mouse. The intolerance probably varies from mouse to mouse, but it is most common in mice which are fed on hamster mix (sometimes called 'rodent mix'). The foods most likely to trigger it off may be peanuts, maize (corn), perhaps wheat, and perhaps for some mice other oily seeds. If your mouse shows there symptoms and you are certain that he does not have a parasitic infestation (lice, mites etc.. - you can't always see them, so if in doubt ask a vet) then put him on a very simple diet. This could be either: *Home-made mouse diet as described above - rice, oats/barley, vitamins if required BUT NO millet or sunflower seeds. Or, if you cannot face the hassle of making up the mouse health food diet: *Plain grains - whole or crushed oats and barlet, but not wheat *Soaked staled wholemeal bread as above, but NOT fresh bread - it sometimes triggers skin reactions in susceptible mice. *Laboratory/complete mouse food pellets, supplemented with fruit & veg. Brands vary, so you may find this doesn't work - the brand you try might contain substances which your mouse reacts to. Thanks to Judy Plummer for the info that her mouse recovered on a diet of lab pellets. *Plenty of carrot & other easily tolerated veg. *AVOID wheat - don't substitute this for oats or barley in the molasses mix. *No corn/maize. Definitely NO peanuts as they are a common cause of this complaint. If the mouse does suffer from the food intolerance (known as 'overheating' in the mouse fancy), the sores & itching should start to subside within 10 days. He will normally be left with scabs for another few weeks or so. Allow 4-6 weeks for a complete recovery. You may then want to try gradually reintroducing millet and sunflower seeds in moderation - these are valuable foods because of their high vitamin content, and mice love them. If any new spots develop, stop feeding these seeds. Angela Horn ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- PARASITES & SKIN PROBLEMS ************************* 4.1 My mouse has scabs on the back of his neck, scratches on his ears etc.. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- This could be caused by a parasitical infection (commonly mites) or a food intolerance (see above). Mites tend to hang around in the fur behind the ears and on the nape of the neck. So do the scabs from food intolerances, which makes things difficult. Try treating for mites first. They are not always visible to the human eye, but those which are look like small specks of dust in the fur (sometimes red, sometimes moving). They are normally caught from hay or straw, other mice, or infected feed. Treat mites with dusting powder sold for cage birds. It is important that the powder is sold for MITE treatment & not for fleas. Most bird powders are Pyrethrum based & safe for mice. Rub the powder in with your fingers (brushes seem to upset the mice) and repeat the treatment as often as it says on the packet, or alternatively three once-weekly dustings should do the trick. At the same time you need to treat any other mice sharing a cage with the affected mouse or near it, and to thoroughly scrub out the cage & any toys.. If you have lots of animals then you may want to consider giving them all a precautionary dusting with mite powder after every new arrival, or after any attend a show or meet other animals. Another very effective treatment for mites is Ivermectin. This is a medicine which is great for removing stubborn parasites, but dosage is very important & for a mouse it will be a *tiny* amount (since the product is manufactured for cattle & other large livestock). So if you want to use this it really is necessary to visit a vet and get them to check the required dose. Other measures you can take are to sprinkle flowers of sulphur in the bedding, hang a Vapona or similar insecticidal strip near the cage, and feed the mouse garlic (crushed in its food, or squeeze the oil out of a garlic oil capsule). Obviously insecticides need to be used with caution, so don't exceed the recommended dose of whatever you use & if you hang an insecticide strip near the mouse cage then treat this as a short-term measure only - it might harm the mice if left there permanently. If the product you use to treat for mites does not cover lice as well then it may be worth giving an additional treatment for this parasite. Other mouse skin problems apart from these parasitical infestations and the food intolerance probably need veterinary attention. In particular you might see: RINGWORM: Bald areas of skin, sometimes crusty as well, which spread out (often but not exclusively in a round pattern). Caused by ringworm, which is HIGHLY contagious and can be very difficult to treat. Humans can catch it too. See your vet at once if you suspect it. MANGE: Nasty parasite which lays eggs in the skin. They hatch into larvae which wriggle around and cause terrible itching. Very contagious, and usually said to be species-specific, ie you should not be able to catch it from your mice. However, they say the same about dog mange but I caught it off a dog as a baby! The doctor didn't know what it was, so eventually my parents took me to the vet who diagnosed it straight away! Again a case for immediate veterinary treatment if it occurs, although I have never actually met anyone whose mice have contracted mange. Angela Horn =============================================================================== 5. BREEDING AND ORPHANED MICE ***************************** 5.1 How do you breed mice? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- With caution! Most mice are very, very fertile - they have up to 17 babies (called pinkies at first) per litter, although 8-10 is more normal. If a pair are left together, they can produce a litter every 3-4 weeks; they do not 'take a break' or plan their family. It is hard to find enough good homes even for very pretty mice, so don't breed unless you're sure you can find homes. Unless there is a fertility problem with a particular mouse, you can expect it to conceive within a week of the male and female being placed together. The female comes on heat approximately every 4-5 days, usually overnight. The gestation period is 17-21 days, although mine have all taken 20 or 21 days. You cannot normally tell that a mouse is pregnant until the last week of her term, when her belly starts to bulge. Sometimes pregnant mice will behave uncharacteristically, eg a previously friendly mouse may suddenly nip. Don't worry about this - she'll get over it. When introducing the male and female, she should always be put into *his* cage, and not the other way around - female mice can be very aggressive to males who pester them, and even more so if the female is in her own territory. AH. 5.2 Should you remove the father before the birth? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Yes, normally - but it is a myth that male mice eat their babies if left with the mother. If the father is left with his family (continuously - he has to be there through at least some of the pregnancy and birth to accept the babies as his own) he will be an *excellent* father and will take on a large part of the childcare. However, he will also mate with the female immediately after she has given birth, and females bred continually in this fashion are likely to become exhausted and to produce weaker babies than those whose families are paced. So it is better to separate the parents before birth, and to allow the mother 4 weeks to suckle her babies plus another 2-4 weeks to rest before putting her with the male again. The problem of what to do with the father is one you should think about seriously before breeding mice. As mentioned above, unless you have him neutered he will not be able to live with other male mice - but if you keep him alone he could have a very boring life. If the female is getting adequate rest between litters then he will only have her company for two weeks out of every 10 or so. So unless you have several females to live with him in turn, he will be alone most of the time. This is quite serious for a mouse, so think through it thoroughly before buying a male to breed from. Alternatively, you might be able to find someone who has a male mouse which already lives alone, or one which is regularly used for stud, who would let your female stay with him for a week or so to mate. Some breeders successfully keep groups of males together and still use them for breeding - does are put into the males' cage and they all mate her. Bear in mind that this may provoke fighting amongst some males. AH. 5.3 When can you breed from females? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Female mice can breed from the age of five weeks onward - but a female bred this young will probably have her growth stunted by the experience, and may produce weak babies, so it is better to wait until she is 3 or 4 months old and fully grown. AH. 5.4 What should I do when my mouse has a litter? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- As soon as she starts to look pregnant, make sure she is in a suitable cage. It must have a secure nesting area which is free from drafts and preferably enclosed - the darker it is inside the nestbox, the better. When she has the litter you may hear squeaking. It is safest to avoid disturbing her until the babies are 3 or 4 days old. Provide plenty of food, perhaps some bread soaked in skimmed milk, lots of bedding, and keep her somewhere quiet. The best housing for a mouse to give birth and rear a young litter in is probably a customised breeding box - a secure wooden cage with wire mesh panels for ventilation. You can find instructions on how to make these in the books by Chris Henwood and Tony Cooke at the end of this FAQ. Alternatively, you can keep the mouse in a tank or cage with *very* narrow bars, and with a secure nestbox. Remember that when the baby mice start running around they will be able to wriggle out between bars only 1/2" apart with ease. Another alternative might be a large plastic bowl, as described in the housing section, covered with very fine mesh wire. AH 5.5 My mouse ate her babies - what happened? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- If a mouse is going to eat her babies, she will normally do so within the first three or four days. After that they should be safe, but occasionally it can happen later; on occasion, mice have killed babies as old as three weeks. Litters are sometimes eaten for the following reasons: - the water or food supply in the cage ran out, and the mother's instinct told her that she wouldn't be able to rear the babies adequately. - the mother's milk dried up and she was not able to feed the babies. - it was the mouse's first litter, and she didn't know what they were, or got carried away eating the placentas and mistakenly ate the babies too. - the babies were born dead, or died soon after birth, or were weak or ill - the mother was disturbed or felt insecure Generally eating a first litter does not mean that the mouse will eat later litters. But if she eats her second litter, it is best not to try again; if she does eventually manage to rear a daughter, she may well pass on her habit. AH 5.6 How do the babies develop? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ They are born looking like frozen prawns, in a very underdeveloped state. They are hairless, blind and deaf. Usually they are pink, but some dark varieties show pigment at birth. Over the next 3 days pigment cells come to the surface of the skin and markings become visible. Hair starts to grow at about 1 week. The babies start moving around more, and nibbling solid food, and opening their eyes, from about 10 days. Soon after this they enter the 'flea' stage when they are very hard to handle - they literally jump like fleas. Be very careful if you handle them at all between 10 days and 3 1/2 weeks of age. Between 3 and 4 weeks of age they calm down. At 4 weeks they should be fully weaned from the mother's milk. At 5 weeks, males and females should be separated and they are ready to go to new homes. AH 5.7 How many babies can a mouse rear successfully? ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Every mouse is different; some successfully rear litters of twelve or more, whereas other mothers are exhausted by six. If a mouse is struggling to feed her litter then some may either die as babies, or grow up stunted and sickly. Feeding a large litter can place her body under a lot of stress. If your mouse has a litter (of any size) it is important to supplement her diet with extras eg bread and milk, or kitten formula milk, or high-protein puppy food (softened with hot water if necessary). Many breeders cull (euthanize) some of the babies from large litters to increase the chances of survival for the remainder and to ease the load on the mother. However, many other breeders believe that this is morally wrong and do not cull litters. This is an issue that you will have to consider if you intend to breed mice; there is no simple answer. People on both sides of the debate are only trying to do what they believe is best for the animals, and every breeder has their own views about how many babies a mouse can raise without harming the health of mother or babies - you have to make your own decision. AH 5.8 What can I do with orphaned or abandoned baby mice? ------------------------------------------------------- If you find yourself with orphaned baby mice, your best chance of raising them lies in finding a female mouse who either has a litter which is about to be weaned, so you can substitute the orphans for her babies, or which has a small litter of around the same age as the orphans & could take a few extra babies. If you want to introduce the orphaned mice to a foster mother, take the mother out of the nest, then put the babies in the nest and rub them in some soiled nest material so that they smell familiar, before putting the mother back in. If her own babies are about to be weaned, you could try putting the orphans in with her litter for a couple of hours before taking the older babies out. Two notes of caution: 1. It is no use trying to foster orphans onto a mother who is rearing her own litter, if there is more than a couple of days' difference in the litters' ages. If one litter is 3 days or more older than the other, what will normally happen is that the older babies will take all the milk, and the younger ones will starve. Of course, if there are only two or three of the older babies, you could give it a try - she may be able to rear them all. 2. Be *VERY* careful about fostering orphaned wild mice onto a domesticated mother. The mother could catch some pretty dreadful diseases from the wild babies - and so could you for that matter. Not all wild mice will carry diseases that could harm you or pet mice, but some certainly will - you won't be able to tell which ones by looking. 5.9 Can I hand-rear orphaned baby mice? ---------------------------------------- It depends how old the babies are. If they are fully furred and their eyes are open, or just about to open, then you have a fair chance of success. They can be fed kitten formula milk from a syringe or dropper, whenever they are hungry (which will be often!) until they can start to nibble solid food, which happens when their eyes open. They will still need supplementary formula until they are 3-4 weeks old. If the babies are orphaned when very young, ie when they have no fur or just fine, downy fur, then you have little chance of raising them - I do not know anyone who has done this successfully, but you could try. Certainly some people have successfully raised newborn rat kittens, but rats are larger and more robust so this is easier. The kittens will need to be kept warm and fed very regularly - I have no experience of this personally but would imagine *at least* hourly, night and day, since baby mice suckle their mother almost constantly for the first two weeks (certainly whenever they get the chance!). You will also need to encourage them to empty their bowels, as their mother would - by gently rubbing their tummies and genitals with a warm, damp cloth - this is a replacement for the mother's tongue. If you don't do this the babies will die as waste products will build up inside them. I'm afraid I can't offer much hope to anyone who tries to hand-raise young orphaned mice - but do let me know if you succeed. Good luck - AH =============================================================================================== 6. HEALTH PROBLEMS AND VETERINARY CARE +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 6.1 Is it really worth taking my pet mouse to the vet? ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Yes! Firstly, if a mouse is suffering then its owner is just as beholden to deal with that suffering as she would be for a dog or cat. Mice feel their pain just as intensely. Dealing with suffering does not have to involve veterinary care, however; if you do not feel able to treat the mouse yourself and do not want to undertake a course of veterinary treatment, then it should be humanely euthanized. Just don't let it suffer hoping that the problem will solve itself. Secondly, a good vet can cure a lot of mouse problems, and it need not cost a fortune; phone around to get quotes. 6.2 Is it possible to operate on mice? --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Yes - laboratories do it all the time, so there's no reason why vets can't. The question is not whether you *can* operate on mice, but whether you *should*. If the vet uses Isoflurane anaesthesia then even complex operations are possible (Isoflurane is the safest anaesthetic to use on small mammals). For example, a friend of mine recently had a caesarian section and hysterectomy performed on a mouse which got into difficulties in labour. But most operations needed by pet mice are quite simple; I had a tumour removed from a mouse, and see Ted P. and Susan R.'s experiences with neutering above. So it is _possible_ to operate on mice, but remember that any surgery, and the recovery period, will be stressful and painful for the animal, and mice are very vulnerable to stress - they can die of it alone. In many cases it may be kinder not to operate. You need to make your own judgement as to whether it is the right thing to do in each situation. 6.3 Won't treatment be stressful for my mouse? ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Operations are always stressful to some degree - it depends how old the mouse is, and how complex the operation. Neutering is thought to be a very simple procedure and the mouse need not experience much discomfort. My mouse was uncomfortable after her tumour removal for a couple of days, so-so for another couple, and perfectly happy after a week. That week of discomfort gave her another six weeks of life, but could easily have given her a couple more months which is quite a lot from a mouse's point of view. That said, after observing how stressful the procedure was for my mouse I would not opt for tumour removal again. Problems may occur if your mouse tries to remove its stitches or opens a wound - talk to your vet about this. Giving oral medication can be stressful for mice as well. If medicine has to be given directly into the mouth, the mice may struggle and squeak. If you cannot see a course of treatment through, or if your mice find it too distressing, then you should consider euthanization if they are suffering. Angela Horn 6.4 I think my mouse has a tumour. What can I do? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Mice are prone to tumours which occur most commonly in the armpit, along the sides and on the abdomen, and sometimes on the back of the neck. Tumours start as a small lump and grow into larger lumps, some lumpy and some smooth. Generally the tumours that feel like smooth balls of fat under the surface, and which are not tightly attached to the underlying tissue, are the least serious and are easiest to remove. True tumours will not go away on their own, and there is at present no real 'cure' except surgery, although you can do other things to improve the quality of life - see steroid treatment below. Your vet may be able to operate to remove a tumour, but bear in mind that a secondary tumour often grows within a few months of surgery. If you decide not to operate, mice can live very happily even with large tumours for some months. If the tumour starts to ulcerate it will become sore and raw on its surface; at this stage, either removal or euthanization is necessary. Steroid treatment can make the mouse's last few months more comfortable - one mouse owner's description of the effects of Prednisalone follows. Angela Horn The drug's (Prednisalone's) effect is to loosen connective tissue, which improves blood flow even as the tumors grow. The vet told me that mice with inoperable tumors often die because the tumors impede blood circulation. Prednisone also is an anti-inflammatory effect so it does make the animal feel better, too. [My mouse] didn't mind taking it (I think it is sweet in its liquid form) and she was spacy for about an hour after the drug's administration. After that, she was obviously more comfortable and quite active, despite her severe limitations. Madeline Lewis (madelineal@aol.com) 6.5 My mouse is sneezing and/or wheezing; what should I do? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Respiratory illness in mice has two main causes. Either it is similar to asthma, and is caused by allergies or reactions to bedding etc., or it is caused by a contagious virus or bacteria. The former case is not serious, but unfortunately the latter is. If the mouse is suffering from asthma then normally only one in a cage will be affected, and it will not seem ill apart from its sneezing. Try a different bedding, and in particular avoid sawdust, shavings or hay. Shredded paper or CareFresh, or a similar safe bedding, is the best option. In the case of contagious diseases, often the mouse will show other symptoms besides sneezing - for example, it may be hunched up, its eyes may be dull, its fur rough. Mice can succumb very quickly to life-threatening diseases, so prompt action is necessary. Separate the affected mice from the healthy ones. Animals can carry infections for up to a month after symptoms have disappeared, so do not let any mice which have come into contact with the ill mice mix with mice from another cage for that period. The traditional approach to respiratory illness in mice is to euthanize all affected animals as soon as symptoms appear, so that infection does not spread to other mice. However, this drastic approach is not necessary. Veterinary treatment can often cure respiratory illness in mice; if the vet suspects that the infection is bacterial then you can give antibiotic medication, either in the water or using a tiny syringe with no needle attached. This will depend on the sort of antibiotic you use - your vet will advise. A good medicine to try first is Tylan - this is an antibiotic which can be given in the water, but it is very bitter and foul-tasting. The best disguise for these bitter tastes in the water is SALTY flavouring, not sweet - add a pinch of salt, and stock or gravy powder. If you use gravy powder to disguise the taste, you will need to give the water in a bowl and not a drinking bottle, otherwise the valve will get gunged up. Sometimes you just can't persuade the mice to drink the stuff, and it is better to try a different antibiotic than to let the mice become dehydrated. Some of the most effective antibiotics, like Baytril, have to be given orally (not in water) I found the best way was to sit each mouse on my lap, on a piece of kitchen towel - they WILL make a mess, and for hygiene purposes it is easiest to just throw the paper towel away - and cup my hand over it so that only its nose sticks out. Hold the tip of the syringe near the mouse's mouth, and gently press the plunger. Often the mouse will just lick the medicine from the syringe, but if it does not then you will have to put the syringe in its mouth. It takes a lot of practise and spillage to successfully administer medicine to mice, so make sure your vet gives you plenty of extra medicine. My mice were treated with two different antibiotics - Baytril first, followed by Synulox. Often two different sorts of antibiotic are needed to eliminate respiratory infections. Of 15 of my mice which were affected, two old mice died before the veterinary treatment began. Another 3 old mice did not show much improvement, so were euthanized. Two geriatric mice never fully recovered and have chronic murine pneumonia, but were otherwise happy. They lived apart from the others to minimise any danger of reinfection, until they died of other causes. The other 8 recovered fully. If you choose to give your mice antibiotics, remember that you could be contributing to the development of antibiotic-resistant bacteria; every time an antibiotic is used, the likelihood of resistance emerging grows. REmember also that antibiotics stop the animal's own immune system functioning at its best, by killing beneficial bacteria in the gut which help to fight infection. These considerations imply that antibiotics are best used for short periods only - it is risky to use them continually over a long period of time. Angela Horn 6.5 My mouse has diahorrhea. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ This is often caused by the mouse eating too much green food, especially things like lettuce, cabbage and broccoli. On other occasions it will be caused by food poisoning or other infection, eg coccidiosis. If your mice are affected, keep them warm and make sure plenty of fresh water is available. Take your vet's advice on perhaps adding a rehydration solution to the water. Cut all greenstuff out of the diet for the moment. Many mouse breeders swear by Arrowroot as a traditional remedy for diahorrhea; you can feed the mice arrowroot biscuits (sold for humans) or arrowroot powder mixed in water. If cutting out greenstuff and feeding arrowroot does not produce results within a day or so, and the mice appear unwell, then contact your veterinary surgeon as treatment will be needed. Angela Horn This excerpt from rec.pets may fill in a few more details: > > This morning I noticed that one of my mice was acting listless. I > > then saw that she has diarrhea. I know this is bad news but I have only > > had her for three weeks and I am very upset. She has not had any greens, > > so that did not cause it. She is nursing 8 day old babies. I am very > > worried about her. Does anyone know of anything I can do for her? I read > > on the pet mouse FAQ that breeders use Arrowroot to help-I don't even know > > what that is. I feel so helpless. Any advice will be much appreciated. > > Thank you in advance. > > Chrisie > > Hiya - OK, first of all, arrowroot is a cooking ingredient that you should > be able to find at your supermarket or grocery store. Ask the staff for help- > it's used for thickening sauces I think. Mix a little with water for the > mouse, & mix in some bread to encourage her to eat it. Alternatively, and > better still, you can find arrowroot biscuits. Try a pharmacy if the store > doesn't have them. > > Diahorrhea in animals is usually caused either by a bacterial infection, or > by some upset to the digestive system. In both cases, probiotics can help- > these are friendly bacteria which live in the gut and help good digestion. > The best ones are found in powder form and added to the water, eg Entrodex - > ask your vet if they sell a similar product. A less good but easy to find > alternative is live natural yoghurt - offer the mouse a small bowl. > > It is important to encourage the mouse to drink, and to keep her hydrated - > ask the pharmacist for some rehydration solution for humans, eg Dioralyte, > or add a timy bit of sugar & salt to the water. > > If the problem persists, the mosue may need antibiotics - you'll have to go to > a vet for these. > > Good luck, > Angela Horn I put arrowroot in her water and within 24 hours she was looking much better. SHe is on regular water now (no arrowroot) and she is doing great, once again. THank you for responding. CHrisie ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 7. REFERENCE SECTION: MOUSE CLUBS, MOUSE BOOKS ETC. ---------------------------------------------------- 7.1 What books are available on keeping pet mice? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- There are quite a few books available (mainly published by TFH) which _claim_ to be about keeping mice as pets, but most seem to focus on the hobby of exhibiting fancy mice which is quite a different thing. I have noticed that the information on healthcare and ailments in books about pet rodents is often inaccurate; the authors do not seem to bother to get a vet to check their opinions and rely on wisdom passed down since the start of the century which has now been superseded by veterinary science! Remember that there is no substitute for taking your mice to see a veterinary surgeon who has experience with small mammals. On no account rely on the advice given in books without checking it with a vet first. Here are details of some of the better books: Mice: A complete pet owner's manual, by Horst Bielfeld. ==================================== Pub. Barron's, ISBN 0-8120-2921-6. This book is unusual in that it is written _entirely_ from the pet perspective. Only a few photographs and very little about fancy mice - he seems a bit confused about mouse colours & implies that white mice are a different breed from coloured mice, which is rubbish. Other than that, a very good book to have - this author has thought about what mice need to make them happy. Great section about keeping mice in a 'mouse condo'. Strongly recommended. Your First Mouse, by Nick Mays. Pub TFH ================ ISBN 185279012-1 A nice, simple introduction to keeping pet mice - very short (33 pages), lots of cute photos, very cheap. Give the health section a miss - the same old problem, as mentioned above. The book is definitely aimed at the pet owner, but it does have a section on the mouse fancy and breeding mice for exhibition which is a very good intro to the subject. Fancy Mice, by Chris Henwood. Pub TFH. ISBN 0-86622-342-8 ========== Lots of nice photos and some sound advice, but the focus of this book is breeding fancy mice for exhibition. It is still interesting for the pet owner, not least because the photos are well-captioned so you can actually see what the different varieties look like. Exhibition and Pet Mice, by Tony Cooke. Pub. Spur Publications. ======================= ISBN 0 904 558 258 Available from the UK National Mouse Club by mail order. A very comprehensive guide to keeping and breeding fancy mice for exhibition, but I can't see where pet mice come into it! Some nice photos of fancy mice, and detailed chapters on breeding each of the different varieties for exhibition. Generally good information on genetics, including a table detailing the colour genetics of each variety, but so far I've spotted a couple of mistakes in this so don't treat it as gospel. Excellent chapter on the history of the mouse. Very well-researched. Highly recommended if you want to breed mice - even if they're not the fancy kind, you'll find this book will help you to breed prettier mice. Angela Horn Mice as a hobby, by Jack Young. Pub. TFH ================ ISBN 0-86622-949-3 One of the very best books on keeping mice as pets. Lots of lovely pictures, and for once the text is quite thoughtful. Probably the most useful book on keeping pet mice you'll find, and the book is from a special series (the Save-Our-Planet books) where the profits go towards conservation. 7.2 Are there any mouse clubs in my area? ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Maybe - here's a list of some. Their priorities vary, from existing to promote the mouse fancy (ie breeding for exhibition) to providing information for pet owners. National Mouse Club (UK) Rodney and Linda Wilson (Secretaries) 29 Manor Close Tunstead, Norwich Norfolk NR12 8EP UK Tel: 01603 737044 (NOTE FROM AH: The NMC is purely a fanciers' organisation, dedicated to those who breed mice for showing. It is not aimed at pet keepers.) London & Southern Counties Mouse & Rat Club Holds mouse & rat shows on the first Saturday of every month at the 4th Enfield Scouts Hall, Gordon Rd, Enfield. For details, contact the Hon. Secretary, Eric Jukes, at 153 Kenilworth Crescent, Middlesex EN1 3RG. The London and Southern now has a Web page & email: lscmrc@ndirect.co.uk http://www.ndirect.co.uk/miceandrats Rat & Mouse Club of America (concerned with keeping mice as both pets and exhibition animals. Publishes a glossy mag every 2 months with great photos) 13075 Springdale Street #302 Westminster, CA 92683 (714) 892-7523 email rmca1@aol.com WWW: http://www.rmca.org American Fancy Rat & Mouse Association (AFRMA) 9230 64th Street, riverside, CA 92509-5924, USA email Craig Robbins on craigr@afrma.org WWW: http://www.afrma.org/afrma American Rat Mouse and Hamster Society J. Penny 740 Begonia Street Escondido, CA 92027 USA Dutch Mouse Breeders Society in Holland. They represent following species: rats, gerbils, mice, hamsters. Nederlandse Muizenfokkers Club Secretary: G. van Oosterhout Muidertrekvaart AB 7 1398 PP Muiden The Netherlands SVEMUS - Swedish Mouse Club If you're not writing in Swedish: Linda Sebek, Oskarsbergsv. 8, 733 73 Ransta If you are writing in Swedish: Grodan Elleby, Lilla Vikv., S-13675 Handen, Sweden SVEMUS hompage: http://www.mds.mdh.se/~ltd92fsk/svemus_main.html Finnish Show and Pet Mouse Club "Suomen Näyttely- ja Lemmikkihiiret" Chairman: Carita Gunnar, Alahovintie 10 A 14, 48600 Karhula, phone: 05-262 091 (Finnish language only). Vice chairman: Satu Karhumaa, of finnmouse@geocities.com can answer questions sent in Finnish, English and Swedish - can write only very simple Swedish back. URL - http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Hills/2421/ (English) http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Hills/2882/ (suomeksi) Mouse and Rat Breeders' Association: L. Sinclaire, 13601 Gladstone, Symar, CA 91342 Rat, Mouse and Hamster Fanciers S. Butler, 188 Scool Streer, Danville, CA 94526 Northeast Rat and Mouse Club: W. Wilson, 603 Brandt Ave, New Cumberland, PA 17070 Australian National Mouse Club: PO Box 216, Ascot Vale, Victoria, 3032, Oz. email Art Grundy on gday@aardvark.apana.org.au, http://aardvark.apana.org.au/~gday/mouse.html The most up-to-date list of mouse & other rodent societies available can be found on Filip Sebek's homepage: http://www.mds.mdh.se/~ltd92fsk/clubs.html 7.3 Are there any mouse sites on the WWW? -------------------------------------------------------------------------- A few - there are lots of scientific pages featuring mice, but mostly in the context of experiments I think. Here are some others: London and Southern Counties Mouse and Rat Club http://www.ndirect.co.uk/miceandrats House of Mouse: http://wwwm.amerisites.com/mouse.html Scott and Julie Turnbaugh's mouse page: http://home.earthlink.net/~tdesign/ourmice.html Electronic Zoo/NetVet - Rodents http://netvet.wustl.edu/rodents.htm Scientific page featuring rodent illnesses, with a mouse section. RMCA web page: (rmca1@aol.com) http://www.rmca.org AFRMA web page: http://www.afrma.org/afrma Australian National Mouse Club: http://aardvark.apana.org.au/~gday/mouse.html Finnish Mouse Club: http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Hills/2421/ (English) http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Hills/2882/ (suomeksi) ****THE END !!!****** ********************************************************************